Authenticity Guide
The Citizens Guard
Company A, Second
Volunteer Infantry Association, Inc.
Our Impression and
General Information about Authenticity. Our primary
portrayal is a late 1862 campaign impression of the Citizens Guard, Company A,
Second Wisconsin Volunteer Infantry Regiment. We also portray campaign
impressions of the Citizens Guard during 1863 and from January 1 through
We
believe our uniforms and equipage should reflect the rigors of military campaigning.
Our uniforms and equipage should
also reflect the efforts that typical soldiers-in-the-field made to keep items
and uniforms in “good working order.” Muskets are to be kept field-clean and in good, safe and working
order at all times. We take care to clean muskets after engagements. After
research and extensive experience carrying gear on marches, we believe our kits
should contain only those items absolutely imperative for a soldier on an
active campaign. We also believe that a shelter half or a rubber
blanket are acceptable means of campaigning. We generally promote
wearing knapsacks or blanket rolls when appropriate.
Our
members stress the proper wear and use
of accouterments. Hats are
generally unadorned for western theater impressions or with minimal dress hat
ornamentation for Second Wisconsin Volunteer Infantry Regiment impressions.
When there are exceptions, due to the time period we are enacting, company
leadership will notify all members. All canteens and haversacks ride near the small of the back and not the bottom of
seat. Haversacks should only
hold mess gear (i.e., tin cup,
utensils and plate) and period-appropriate rations. They
should not be the repository for personal items or so called "haversack
stuffers."
The
waist belt should be worn at the
navel, not below it, positioned at what is called the natural waist. The cartridge box belt should be shortened so the top of the cartridge box is no
lower than the bottom of the waist belt. It is acceptable to place the
waist belt through the loops of the cartridge box and shorten the cartridge box
belt accordingly.
During
reenacting, as during the war itself, it is attention to details that makes a
soldier and unit truly distinctive. We attempt to have all uniform and
equipage correct in pattern, materials, and construction to the original
documented articles at all times. We keep our hair length short, with no flowing locks below a shirt collar. If a
member needs vision correction, period
spectacles or contact lenses are worn. Modern eyeglasses, wristwatches
and other items of "this century" are not acceptable. We make
allowances for medications and other reasonable circumstances, but ask that you
discuss any of these personal requirements with your leadership in advance.
Suggested
In
Conclusion. Company A members believe a top-notch kit is
useless unless it is paired with a positive attitude towards an accurate
portrayal and appropriate military bearing. This takes a great deal of
effort… personally and as a company. We continue to refine our impression
through research and, most importantly, by helping one another along the
way. We do not claim to be experts and we listen to the suggestions and
observations of others in the reenacting community. Because our standards are high,
and because we realize our soldiers have varying means, we give ample time for
and personal assistance to members working to meet our exacting standards. At
all times, however, we expect that everyone will work on their impression. It
should always be a work in progress. This personal and unit commitment not only
makes us one of the finest units on the field, but a unit with the highest
level of camaraderie.
Uniform
& Equipage Standards for the Enlisted Foot Soldier
Note:
For visual reference only, we have listed the page numbers in Time-Life Books, Echoes of Glory: Volume 2 - Arms &
Equipment of the Union, that correspond with most items covered in this
guide and our Uniform & Equipage
List. The Echoes of Glory book
set can be purchased on-line and at most popular bookstores. It is also
available in many libraries. At the end of each description, we list the
picture reference (i.e., EOG/US/page #).
Fatigue Blouse (Sack
Coat)
A bit of
history. The fatigue blouse is seen among Second
Wisconsin members as early as the fall of 1861 (State Issue or Commercial
Blouses). Photographic evidence of Company C, Second Wisconsin Volunteer
Infantry Regiment, depicts the Grant County Grays clothed entirely in federal
issue fatigue blouses during the late spring/early summer of 1862 (SHSW
negative no. WHi (X3) 11298). Also a letter of correspondence from a
member in Company E of the Second Wisconsin Volunteer Infantry indicated that
by
Our standards.
The Citizens Guard requires all members to first purchase a fatigue blouse
(before they purchase a uniform (or dress) coat). The fatigue blouse's
basic features include an indigo dyed (a rich dark blue with a greenish tinge)
wool flannel, with a diagonal weave, a kidney shaped or square corner interior
pocket, four 3/4 inch general service eagle buttons, small cuff vents, and a
falling collar.
Our
fatigue blouses are either lined or unlined, but lined fatigue blouses (which
were in the majority) are preferred. Wool flannel lining can be tan, gray,
brown, or blue with corresponding cotton muslin sleeve lining and hand-sewn
sleeves between body of the coat and sleeve lining. Lining is slightly shorter
that the outside wool (approximately two to three inches of wool flannel
showing on the inside of the coat, as a border, based on original specimens).
Unlined
coats should have hand flat felled seams.
All
buttonholes shall be hand sewn using blue, black, or logwood faded (brown)
linen or cotton thread. We have authentic instructions and can also
provide assistance for the "sewing challenged" among you!
Approved
styles include Schuylkill Arsenal Pattern (entirely hand sewn), J.T. Martin
contract pattern, New York Depot pattern & other documented arsenal and
contract patterns.
When
possible, we use the four standard sizes of the Federal Army during the
war. These were: Size 1 = 36 inch chest, Size 2 = 38 inch chest, Size 3 =
40 inch chest, and Size 4 = 42 inch chest. For more information on
fatigue blouses, please consult Patrick Brown’s monograph For Fatigue
Purposes…The Army Sack Coat of 1857-1872. (EOG/US/125)
Uniform Coat (Dress
Coat)
A bit of history.
The Second Wisconsin had their initial uniform coat issue in October
1861. They primarily used the uniform coat through the spring of 1862, at
which time many in the regiment chose to wear the more comfortable fatigue
blouse. The regiment continued this practice (except for dress occasions
under the command of Gibbon & Meredith and during colder months) until the
expiration of their three-year term of service on
While
the soldiers generally preferred the fatigue blouse, all soldiers in the Iron
Brigade were required to have in their possession a uniform coat by the order
of Brigadier General Solomon Meredith on April 8, 1863.
Paraphrasing our pard Michael Thorson, most soldiers complied with this order
by carrying their uniform coats in their knapsacks if they wore the fatigue
blouse ("Portraying the 2nd Wisconsin").
Our standards.
The coat’s basic features include an indigo dyed woolen cloth (broadcloth or
uniform cloth as documented in original specimens), a standing collar, skirt
with two rear pockets, 1/4 inch padded black or brown polished cotton chest
lining, cotton muslin sleeve lining, hand sewn sleeves between body of the coat
and sleeve lining, saxony blue/sky blue (not baby blue) welting on collar,
cuffs, and a vertical welt along the cuff split.
Eyes
and hooks should be attached at the collar and corners of the skirt. There
is no internal chest pocket in this coat, and there is no lining in the back of
the coat body or the skirt.
Buttonholes
shall be all hand sewn using blue, black, or logwood faded (brown) linen or
cotton thread. Uniform coats must have nine 3/4 inch general service eagle
buttons on body front, two 3/4 inch general service eagle buttons in back
(above the skirt tails), and two 5/8 inch general service eagle buttons on each
functional cuff.
All
documented arsenal and contract patterns of correct construction are
acceptable.
If
possible, we try to use the four standard sizes of the Federal Army during the
war. These were: Size 1 = 36 inch chest, Size 2 = 38 inch chest, Size
3 = 40 inch chest, and Size 4 = 42 inch chest. (EOG/US/121-123)
Trowsers (Foot
Pattern)
A bit of history. The
Second Wisconsin's initial Federal trowser issue occurred during the first week
of October 1861. These trowsers were of dark blue wool, complying with U.S. Army Regulations up to that
time.
By
December of 1861, General Order No. 108
changed the color of the enlisted trowsers to sky blue. According to
historian Howard Michael Madaus, the Second Wisconsin was issued dark blue
trowsers up to its last requisition of August 13, 1862 ("Appendix
III" 322). Starting in the fall of 1862, these dark blue kersey trowsers
were gradually replaced by the standard sky blue kersey issue.
By
the spring of 1863, well before the battle of Gettysburg, the regiment was
nearly all supplied with sky blue trowsers.
Our standards. The
Citizens Guard requires all members to first purchase their sky blue kersey
issue trowsers. After other initial items, you can than purchase dark blue
kersey trowsers.
Some
basic features include a greenish cast sky blue or dark blue kersey wool with a
diagonal weave, correct rise of trowsers in the seat (back yoke), right side
watch pocket, narrow tapered waistband, four or six stamped paper backed tin
suspender buttons, five small paper back tin fly buttons, side seam pockets,
correct overlapping cuff vents with internal cuff facings, and correct fly
panels and facings.
Buttonholes
and tieback grommet holes should be hand sewn with dark blue or logwood-dyed
cotton or linen thread.
Approved
styles include Schuylkill Arsenal pattern (entirely hand sewn), J.T. Martin
contract pattern, William Deering contract pattern & other documented
arsenal and contract patterns.
If
possible, we once again recommend sticking to the four standard sizes of the
Federal Army during the war. These were: Size 1 = 32 inch waist x 31
inch inseam, Size 2 = 34 inch waist x 32 inch inseam, Size 3 = 36 inch waist x
33 inch inseam, and Size 4 = 38 inch waist x 34 inch inseam. (EOG/US/121,
123, 127)
U.S. Pattern 1858
Dress Hat (Hardee Hat)
A bit of history. The
famed black hat was first issued to the Second Wisconsin during the first week
of October 1861. They were re-supplied with the U.S. pattern of 1858 dress
hat throughout the war. This hat was worn with pride and made the Iron Brigade
a distinctive unit within the Army of the Potomac.
Outdoor
photographic evidence of the Second Wisconsin in July 1862 depicts the Badgers
wearing their dress hats with both sides of the brim down, or pinned up on the
left side with a stamped brass eagle. Research conducted by Howard
Michael Madaus allows us to read the contents of a Second Wisconsin
quartermaster report from the National Archives, Entry 4381, Record Group No.
393, Pt. II. This requisition form is dated July 11, 1862, "...11
hats complete: 70 eagles, 50 bugles, 40 feathers, 40 letters 'C,' and 60
figures '2' " (qtd. in Appendix III, "The Uniform of the Iron Brigade
at Gettysburg" 339).
With
the rigors of campaigning, the Second Wisconsin soldiers obviously lost the
eagle plates, ostrich plumes, enlisted sky blue infantry hat cords, company
letters, and regimental numerals. In April 1863, the soldiers of the Second
Wisconsin were ordered to wear die cut, worsted wool corps badges on their
dress hats. These were positioned generally underneath the regimental
brass numeral of each soldier's dress hat. The existing dress hat of
Sergeant Philander B. Wright (located at the Wisconsin Veterans Museum (WVM)),
Company C, Second Wisconsin Volunteer Infantry Regiment confirms this corps
badge positioning. It has the 1 7/8 inch, red worsted wool disk sewn into
the front crown of the dress hat, with the regimental brass '2' inserted
directly on top of the corps badge.
By
the battle of Gettysburg, hat ornamentation within the Second Wisconsin was
gradually on the decline. Corps badges were definitely in use, with lesser
degrees of regimental numerals and company letters. Some soldiers still
used the stamped brass eagle to pin the hat up at their discretion.
As
one might assume, the degree of dress hat ornamentation decreased in
requisition from early, to mid, to late war.
Our standards. Made
of black rabbit or wool felt, with a 2.5 inch black leather sweatband, the hat
has a 3 inch brim, 5.5 inch crown height, has double row brim stitching at 4
stitches per inch, a black silk grosgrain ribbon surrounding the base of the
crown, and a black oilcloth or paper crown label.
Since
we portray Company A during active campaigning, we prefer minimal dress hat ornamentation with decreased amounts worn as the
war progressed. Corps badges may only be
worn during a post April 1863 impression. You may also leave your black
hat undecorated as well! (EOG/US/120)
Forage Cap
Our standards. With increasing opportunities to reenact other Wisconsin and Midwest
units in other theatres and periods of the war, having a good forage cap is
becoming a necessity. These shall be
worn without hat ornamentation unless otherwise noted.
U.S. Pattern 1858. Made
of dark blue wool, with a lining of black or brown Silesia soft, sturdy
lightweight cotton). Body of the cap should be stiffened by a 2 ¾ inch piece of
buckram with a single row of stitches, 16 (to the inch) with black silk or
linen thread. The sweatband of good black morocco (leather) two inches wide
which should be sewed to the base of the cap and through the cloth buckram. The
brim should be of glazed leather black above, in the form of a squared off crescent,
with the chinstrap of soft black glazed leather and two 5/8 inch general service eagle buttons attached on each side of the chin
strap. Note that Type I versus Type II
is not addressed specifically in this edition of the Guide and either is
acceptable. (EOG/US/120)(QM Manual 1865)
U.S. Pattern
Jefferson Bootees (Shoes)
Our standards. Black
dyed, semi rough out leather, squared front, one inch heels, four sets of
shoelace holes with one in the vamp, accompanied with leather
shoelaces. Leather soles can be either pegged or sewn. Heel rims,
inlet heel rims, and hobnails are all acceptable. For further information
on U.S. pattern Jefferson Bootees, please consult Michael R. Cunningham's
article, "Federal Issue Jefferson Bootees-Part 1," contained in
Volume 7, No. 2 issue of The Watchdog.
(EOG/US/191)
Civilian Shirt
Our standards. Must
be of period fabric and construction. The body of the shirt may be either
hand or machine stitched, but entirely hand sewn civilian shirts (which were
more common) are preferred. All buttons & buttonholes shall be
entirely sewn by hand. Hand felled seams helped to prevent fraying, and
was another very common sewing detail found in civilian shirts. Look for
two to three colored woven shirt patterns such as small plaids, checks, and
stripes. The woven shirt patterns should be the same on the reverse side of
the shirting fabric. Civilian shirt fabrics should be of 100 percent
cotton or other natural material. Look for small folding or banded
collars, and three or four button plackets. Civilian shirts can have
square gussets as popular in the 1850's, or the rounded sleeves, which became
stylish during the 1860's.
Correct
buttons were comprised of bone, horn, shell, china, milk glass, brass/metal,
hard rubber, or wood in two or four hole styles (use documented compositions
for buttons). Small size buttons ranging from 3/8 of an inch to 1/2 of an
inch in diameter are preferred. According to Robert A. Braun, four hole
style buttons should be sewn on "such that the thread forms an
"X" between the button holes." ("Low-Cost Improvements for
your Uniform and Equipage") (EOG/US/126)
Federal Issue Shirt
Our standards. Made
of domet wool flannel, completely hand sewn, incorporating a rectangular body
with square gussets, produced in one size, and delivered in bales. In
Stephen Osman's article, "The Federal Issue Shirt," he describes the
basic features of an existing issue shirt located at the Danish Army Museum in
Copenhagen: "It is off white or cream-colored flannel (wool on a cotton
warp) with a reinforced slit front opening, a squared collar closed by a single
stamped sheet iron button, tapered sleeves with internally faced cuffs formed
as part of the sleeve and closed by single buttons, a reinforcing strap across
the top of the shoulder, and very full cut in the body." (4-5)
Also
acceptable are the gray wool flannel contract variant issue shirts.
Paraphrasing our pard William Brewster in his article, "The Case for the
Contract Variant Issue Shirt," the basic features of this shirt include: a
three-button placket, no sleeve gussets, machine-sewn body, and the use of
stamped tin buttons. (6-7)
Since
all soldiers were allotted three issue shirts per year, we know the men of the
Second Wisconsin wore these warm-clothing articles. Citizens Guard members
should strive to wear an issue as much as possible in their impressions.
(EOG/US/126)
Drawers
Our standards. Either
Federal Issue pattern or civilian patterns are acceptable. Federal issue
drawers should be made of cotton canton flannel, with cotton tape ties in the
rear and the ankles. Hand sewn paperback tin buttons, buttonholes, and
tieback grommet holes. These should wear high on the waist.
(EOG/US/127)
Civilian
drawers should be made of fabrics such as cotton catton flannel, cotton
osnaburg, or linen. Other features include hand-sewn buttonholes, buttons,
and tieback grommet holes. Buttons may be bone, china, or other documented
compositions. Civilian drawers should also ride rather high on the
waist.
We
highly recommend all members have at least one pair of drawers.
Socks
Our standards. Either
wool or cotton, hand knitted or period machine construction, with period tops
and side seams, available in varying lengths. Stick to dull colors such as
gray, brown, cream, blue, dark green, tan, or dark red.
Suspenders
Our standards.
Suspenders must be of documented style and construction. Since the Federal
Army did not issue these, soldiers had to either purchase a pair from a
merchant, have them sent from home, or simply went without them. They were
typically made out of cotton or linen webbing or drill with “differing degrees”
of sophistication (sometimes little). Common styles ranged from simple
straps with hand-sewn buttonholes (poorboys), to sewn straps with two
or three tined brass adjustments & leather ends on each side. The
suspenders are not sewn together in the middle of the back but are instead
separate pieces.
Do
not purchase a cheap sutler pair of suspenders! Stick to the merchants in
the Uniform & Equipage List and
you will do fine. While we do not encourage the wearing of belts instead
of suspenders, it is acceptable. All
belts must be of documented materials, pattern, and construction as compared to
original specimens.
Spectacles
Our standards. For
those who need vision correction, you must either purchase a set of period or
reproduction eyeglasses with your prescription, wear contact lenses, or go with
out any. This is not negotiable.
Period
spectacles of the mid 19th century had features such as oval or rectangular
frames, arch or crank bridges, and straight or sliding temple pieces with a
small teardrop final. Frames were commonly made out of brass, silver, or
gold. Lenses were made out of glass. For more information on
spectacles, please consult Nicky Hughes' article, "A Closer Look,"
Volume 3, No. 4 issue of The Watchdog.
Cartridge Box
Our standards. U.S.
Pattern of 1855, 1857, and 1861 .58 caliber cartridge boxes are all acceptable.
Cartridge boxes should be sewn by hand using waxed linen thread, comprised
of tanned leather, dyed black, with tins, and cartridge box plate attached
with a small piece of leather. (EOG/US/199, 202)
Cartridge Box Belt
(Sling)
Our standards. The
Cartridge Box Belt (sling) is made of bridle leather, dyed black, 2.25 inches
wide, and 55.5 inches long clear of billets. Billets (two narrow four-hole
adjustment strips) should be 4.25 inches in length at each end of the
belt. The total length of the cartridge box belt is 64 inches. The
cartridge box belt should be shortened so the top of the cartridge box is no
lower than the bottom of the waistbelt. The round eagle cartridge box belt
plate (breastplate) should be attached using a small piece of leather.
U.S. Pattern
Waistbelt
Our standards. The
waistbelt is made of bridle leather, dyed black, 1.9 inches wide, 38.5 inches
long with leather loop keeper which is preferred,
or brass belt keeper for impressions after 1863. All waistbelts shall have the correct lead backed
U.S. buckle for the pattern of belt worn.
For the leather loop pattern waistbelt, a stud backed U.S. pattern
buckle is suggested to be attached. For
the brass belt keeper pattern waistbelt, the arrow back U.S. pattern buckle is
suggested to be attached. (EOG/US/198-199, 202)
U.S. Pattern 1850
Cap Box
Our standards. The
cap box is made of bridle leather, dyed black, has an outer flap with latching
tab, wool strip hand sewn to the back of the inner flap, cone pick loop,
riveted brass finial, and two waistbelt loops which were hand sewn to the back
of the cap box along with small copper rivet supports. Once again, the cap box
should be entirely hand sewn. Shield front cap boxes are also
acceptable. (EOG/US/202)
U.S. Pattern Bayonet
Scabbard
Our standards. Must
be the U.S. Pattern; no British Enfield Scabbards are allowed. We prefer the early war
"Gaylord" pattern two rivet sewn style, or the pattern 1863 seven-rivet
bayonet scabbard which is acceptable for impressions after 1863 only. These
bayonet scabbards were made of black dyed bridle leather and featured attached
frogs of either bridle or buff leather. All bayonet scabbards must have a
secure brass tip. This item should be hand sewn. (EOG/US/202)
U.S. Pattern 1851
Haversack
Our standards. Some
basic features includes hand or machine sewn construction, black tarred
exterior coating that seeps into the interior, cotton or linen inner bag
attached by three hand sewn 5/8 inch tin or bone buttons, hand sewn inner bag
button holes, iron 5/8 inch roller buckle, and a one piece shoulder strap of 40
to 45 inches in length.
Haversacks
must ride at the small of the back, with the top of the haversack no lower than
the waistbelt. To make adjustments, either cut and re-sew the strap or
fold over the excess portion and re-sew using 100 percent cotton or linen black
thread. Haversacks should only hold those items of your mess gear (tin
cup, utensils, and plate) and your rations. They should not be the
repository for your personal items or so called "haversack stuffers."
(EOG/US/210-211)
U.S. Pattern 1858
Smoothside Canteen
A bit of history. The
following canteen descriptions are from Robert A. Braun's article, "The
Federal Canteen," that was at one time posted on the Thirty-third
Wisconsin Volunteer Infantry Website:
“New York Depot Pattern of 1858,
with spout of white metal (not tin), occasionally mounted on the canteen with
large spout ‘shoulder’ reinforcement that bulged out from the canteen. Stopper
secured with a jack chain, with hole punched in a tin strap keeper to hold the
chain (only the New York Depot canteens had this chain attachment feature!).
The New York Depot had no manufacturing
capability, thus received and shipped lots of canteens as ‘complete’ from their
contractors.
The canteens purchased by the New York
Depot featured the jack chain to secure the stopper. ALL OTHER canteens of
verifiable provenance have their stoppers secured with a simple cord or string.
This means that, theoretically, ONLY the New York Depot canteens would have a
hole punched into one of the tin strap keepers to secure the chain.
Philadelphia Depot canteens (this includes all those Pattern of 1862 corrugated
canteens) and Cincinnati Depot canteens wouldn’t have this hole.”
Our standards. Must
be a U.S. Pattern 1858 Smoothside Canteen, with correct brownish/gray jean wool
cover, pewter spout, jack chain (New York Depot only) or string stopper
attachment. If string is used for Philadelphia and Cincinnati Depot canteens,
then the tin strap brackets should not have a punched hole.
Leather
canteen straps are preferred for
Second Wisconsin Volunteer Infantry Regiment impressions from late 1861 to the
spring of 1863. A mixture of the leather
strap and cloth strap would be appropriate for impressions during the spring
through summer of 1863 for Second Wisconsin impressions. There is documented
evidence of the leather strap in the ranks of the federal army at the battle of
Gettysburg from canteens in the collection of this national battlefield park.
Cloth straps are preferred for impressions
generally after the summer of 1863 for Second Wisconsin impressions. Western
Theater depots such as Cincinnati and St. Louis Depot seem to have issued
canteens exclusively with the cloth strap throughout the war. For western
theater federal impressions, the cloth strap is the correct choice unless
documentation proves otherwise.
The
canteen must ride at the small of the back. Proper means of cotton strap
adjustment include cutting the strap and re-sewing it using 100 percent cotton
or linen thread, or tying a knot in the strap. We have seen several original
canteens at the WVM that feature cotton canteen straps knotted once and in some
cases twice. However, this style of adjustment is rather uncomfortable to
wear with a knapsack. We prefer the cut and sew adjustment over the
knotted adjustment, but both are acceptable. If the leather strap needs
to be shortened, adjust to a smaller strap length with the existing issue strap
holes or if necessary for even a smaller strap, cut and punch a new hole in the
leather to make sure it rides at the small of your back.
(EOG/US/206-207)
U.S. Pattern 1855
Doublebag Knapsack
Our standards. Hand
or machine sewn linen body tarred black with a glossy appearance (some exterior
coating seeping into the interior is to be expected), black dyed shoulder
straps, iron roller buckles, hand sewn buckles & keepers, reinforcements of
split leather, and overcoat straps. The double bag knapsack contained
two compartments; one consisting of a tie shut pouch with leather ties while
the other side was simply a four-sided fold in keeper with leather straps &
roller buckles. Wartime documented contract versions are also acceptable.
(EOG/US/212-213)
U.S. Issue Rubber
Blanket or Poncho
Our standards. Rubber
or Gum Blankets were the primary ground cloth of the infantry during the
war. Made of rubber with a white linen backing, small brass grommets, with
dimensions of 46 inches by 71 inches.
Ponchos
were mainly used by the cavalry, but there are accounts of infantrymen using
them. Ponchos have a reinforced slit in the middle of the spread, with a
tin button closure. Same small brass 9/16 inch diameter grommets are also
used. We will accept both, but the Rubber (or Gum) Blanket is the
preferred choice. (EOG/US/215)
U.S. Issue Blanket
Our standards. Must
be a documented pattern and can be either the gray issue wool blanket with
black woven end stripes and 4 to 4.5 inch US letters stitched in the middle of
the blanket, or the brown issue blanket with woven brown end stripes and 4 to
4.5 inch US letters stitched in the middle of the blanket. Blankets should
not have bound edges, if they do, they must be removed. All blankets
should have a noticeable diagonal weave, especially visible in the end
stripes. Dimensions should be close to 7 feet by 5 feet-six inches,
weighing about five pounds.
Don't
go cheap when purchasing an issue blanket. You want something that will
keep you warm, using only one blanket as allotted by the government.
(EOG/US/214)
U.S. Issue Shelter
Half
Our standards. Shelter
halves were generally made of 8 ounce cotton duck, with varying dimensions in
the area of 66 inches long by 65 inches wide (original shelter halves did
shrink quite a bit, so their are dimension differences between original shelter
halves), had twenty three hand sewn bone or tin buttons & buttonholes of
waxed cotton thread, and 8 hand sewn grommet holes (includes the guy rope and
pole grommets). Shelter halves were not issued with brass grommets
and machine-stitched buttons & buttonholes; therefore this common modern
construction method used by some merchants is NOT acceptable.
Shelter
halves should have a guy rope of six-thread manila line that extends six feet,
ten inches in length. The same manila line is also used for the tent stake
loops. Early war three panel sections are preferred for all Citizen Guard impressions also coined as Type II
shelter halves by Fred Gaede. All shelter halves shall be correct in pattern,
materials, and construction compared to the original specimens. Type III shelter halves (October of 1863
issue according to Fred Gaede) would be appropriate for later war impressions,
which feature two panel sections of cotton duck and in some documented
specimens tabby weave and blue line canvas material. It takes two
shelter halves to make a shelter tent.
Tent pegs
for the shelter half were issued by the Federal Army during the war. They were
generally made of wood, with a curved top, which slimed down to a narrow
point. Obviously these were lost during campaigning, but seemed to be a
lightweight item that could be easily carried in a knapsack (Each soldier would
carry two pegs for his shelter half). We typically recommend using hard
wood sticks as tent pegs. During an active campaign, soldiers would not
have carried metal or iron tent stakes in their knapsacks because they are too
heavy to cart around. Tent poles have
a similar history. While there were issue tent poles (at times) many soldiers
appear to have fashioned their own poles out of what they could find in terms
of tree branches. For further information on shelter halves, please consult
Frederick C. Gaede’s monograph The Federal Civil War Shelter Tent, Tim
Shaw's article, "The Lowly Shelter Tent," in Vol. 3, No. 2 issue of The Watchdog, and Patrick McDermott's
article, "A Survey of Civil War Shelter Halves," in The Company Wag, a publication of The
Mudsills, Inc., Vol. 1, No.2, (September, 1988).
(EOG/US/214)
Did Soldiers
Actually Carry All of These Things? Most or many did!
And items lost or destroyed were reissued at times. Here are the requisitions
of the Second Wisconsin from June 12 through August 13, 1862, regarding equipage. The
following table is from Howard Michael Madaus' article, "The Uniform of
the Iron Brigade at Gettysburg." The table is entry 4381, Record
Group No. 393, Pt. II, from the National Archives. This table appears as a
footnote on page 357 of In the Bloody Railroad Cut at Gettysburg, by Lance J.
Herdegen and William J.K. Beaudot.
|
Item |
June 12, 1862 |
July 3, 1862 |
July 11, 1862 |
Aug. 13, 1862 |
|
Knapsacks |
25 |
50 |
73 |
-- |
|
Haversacks |
70 |
100 |
113 |
150 |
|
Canteens |
51 |
100 |
57 |
150 |
|
Rubber Blankets |
-- |
75 |
2 |
-- |
|
Shelter Tents |
24 |
100 |
88 |
-- |
Rifle-Musket
A bit of history. The
following account is an ordnance summary from June 30, 1863 as documented by
Howard Michael Madaus in his article, "The Uniform of the Iron Brigade at
Gettysburg":
“Among
the Wisconsin regiments, the eight reporting companies of the 2nd
Wisconsin claimed two-hundred and sixty-seven Austrian "Lorenz" M1854
rifle-muskets in their original .54 caliber. (Companies E and H had
failed to report their arms as of June 30.) These had replaced their sheet iron
.69 caliber smoothbore altered percussion muskets during January of
1862.” (363)
By
January 1864, quartermaster records indicate that the Second Wisconsin was
issued new Enfield rifle-muskets to use for the duration of their muster.
Our standards. Since
there is not a dependable reproduction source for the Austrian
"Lorenz" M1854, .54 caliber rifle-musket & replacement parts at
this time except for original weapons, we have opted for some other commonly
reproduced rifle-muskets during the war. We prefer the M1861 Springfield
rifle-musket that the 6th Wisconsin carried, or the Pattern 1853 Enfield
rifle-musket that the Citizens Guard carried by January of 1864. All
muskets must have three-barrel bands, with exception to original Austrian
Lorenz M1854, .54 caliber rifle-muskets, which are of course highly encouraged
but are expensive.
If
the Enfield rifle-musket is purchased, it should be burnished (bright). We
also suggest that modern makers' marks should be removed, and any necessary
modifications be made to ensure the accuracy of your
rifle-musket. (EOG/US/28-29, 36-37, 38-39, 40-41, 42-43)
Bayonet
Our standards. You
also need to purchase a corresponding pattern bayonet for your
rifle-musket. Make sure it fits on your rifle-musket properly before
purchasing. File off any modern markings. Original bayonets are even
better if you can find one to fit your rifle-musket.
Rifle-Musket Sling
Our standards. Leather
rifle-musket slings of documented patterns only. Here is a section
from Geoff Walden's article, "Sling, Arms!," in Vol. 3, No. 3
issue of The Watchdog. It is a
great description of what to look for in reproduction musket slings.
“The
US regulation sling was a leather strap, 46 inches long and 1 1/4 inch wide,
with a captive loop at one end, and a brass hook at the other, and a sliding
keeper between (US Ordnance Manual,
1861, p.228). The leather specified was "russet bag-leather,"
which was a brown color, lighter weight leather. It was not the bright
orange-red of most reproductions, but was a medium brown that darkened after it
was oiled. Besides the color here are other things to look for (and avoid)
on reproductions. There should be no rivets, except those holding the hook
on. The captive loop and the sliding keeper were sewn, not riveted. The
hook should be a flat brass hook with a point, about 3/4-inch long. It
should not be made of brass or iron wire. The end of the sling should be
folded over & sewn, and the back of the hook should pass between these
leather pieces, and be riveted with two small brass rivets.” (6)
For
further information on rifle-musket slings, please consult Geoff Walden's
article, "Sling, Arms!," in Vol. 3, No. 3 issue of The Watchdog.
Mess Furniture
Our standards.
A soldiers mess items should consist of a tin cup or fruit can boiler, knife,
fork, and spoon (or combination set), and a plate/canteen half. No stainless
steel mess furniture will be allowed!
A. Tin Cup: Made
of tin, with proper lipped bottom, wire reinforced cup handle, cup size
approximately 4 by 4 inches. No crimped bottom cups.
B. Fruit Can
Boiler: An alternative to the tin cup, made of
tin, with a lipped bottom, and a wire bail. No crimped bottoms or
sides.
C. Knife: Plain
wood or bone handles with straight steel blades.
D. Fork: Plain
wood or bone handles with 2, 3 or 4 steel tines.
E. Spoon: Made
of stamped steel or iron, with a fiddle or oar shaped handle.
F. Combination
Set: Must be of a documented pattern, with
steel knife, fork, & spoon attachments.
G. Plate: Made
of stamped or hot dipped tin, approximately 8.5 to 9.5 inches in
diameter.
H. Canteen
Half: An alternative to a plate, which can
additionally function as a skillet. Must be of tin; no stainless steel.
I. Skillet:
An alternative to a canteen half. Must be made of thin sheet iron with
thin riveted handles. They should also have a looped or hooked end at the
tip of the handle. These will be closely inspected for accuracy.
Once again, stick to the Uniform &
Equipage List and you will do fine. A picture of an existing Civil War
skillet can be seen in Time-Life Books, Echoes
of Glory: Volume 1 - Arms & Equipment of the Confederacy, page
214. (EOG/US/224-225)
Housewife
Our standards: The
sewing kit of the common soldier used during the Civil War. Generally
homemade of cotton (shirting material), linen, wool, or silk, entirely hand
sewn using cotton or linen thread; with compartments for thread, buttons,
needles, and patching material. They should neatly roll up or fold, and be
secured by two cloth ties or a hand sewn button.
Leather
housewives, or those of a black tarred exterior coating are also acceptable,
but must be patterned after a documented wartime article. May be either
hand or machine sewn, with compartments for thread, buttons, needles, and
patching material.
This
is a very handy item for all to have in their kits. For further
information on sewing kits commonly called housewives, please consult Erle H.
Roberts' article, "Sewing Kits of the Civil War," contained in The Hardcracker Handbook.
(EOG/US/222-223)
Additional Items
(Not Required to Purchase… Note Listing
towards the end of this guide regarding times lines and recommended items)
Our
standards. Foot Pattern only. Some features
include a greenish cast sky blue kersey wool with a diagonal weave, standing
three inch collar, two sets of hooks and eyes, hand sewn button holes and
buttons using dark blue or logwood faded (brown) cotton or linen thread, body
lining of dark blue kersey wool or a light brown wool & cotton/linen mixed
lining, sleeve lining of cotton drill, cape with six 5/8 inch general service
eagle buttons, front with five ¾ inch general service eagle buttons, back half
belt with two ¾ inch general service eagle buttons attached, two piece cuffs,
and a unhemmed skirt bottom. (EOG/US/128-129)
Vest
Our standards. Must
be well-fitted and constructed of documented materials and pattern. Either
military or civilian patterns are acceptable. All buttonholes and buttons
should be hand sewn, using cotton or linen thread.
(EOG/US/121)
Leggings
A bit of history.
The Second Wisconsin was issued in early May of 1862, linen leggings by the
order of Brigadier General John Gibbon. They were disliked by many in the
Black Hat Brigade during the summer of 1862. Here is a passage from
William H. Harries, Company B, Second Wisconsin Volunteer Infantry Regiment,
describing his view of leggings. This passage is from Mr. Harries'
article, "In the Ranks at Antietam," which is part of George H. Otis'
compilation, The Second Wisconsin
Infantry.
“General Gibbon tried at one time tried
to make us wear leggings. They were troublesome to keep clean. The
Virginia mud would cling to them with a tenacity that would make the soldiers
swearing mad. One day just as we were starting out for brigade drill, as
the general's horse was brought out to him to mount it was found someone had
enclosed his horse's legs in the leggings. When the boys saw this they
raised a great shout of laughter. Gibbon tried to find out who it was
that played the trick but was unable to do so.” (262)
According
to quartermaster records, this was a one-time issue for the entire
regiment. By the fall of 1862, many of these items were in rather tattered
shape. Only one known serviceable pair of leggings was able to last into
1863.
Our standards. Must
be of the correct leather looped thong pattern, and made of white linen or
canvas. No other patterns are acceptable.
The
leggings leather loops are attached to the inside of each legging. Each
successive leather thong, beginning from the bottom, was looped through the
upper one until the top of the leather strap.
Additionally,
all leggings should have a correct buckle closure at the top leather strap, and
a bottom leather strap, which passes underneath a soldier's shoes and attaches
via two copper rivets. Correct maker's marks are also appropriate.
These
will be severely inspected for accuracy. Only one merchant currently makes
an accurate pair of leggings for our impression. Stick to the Uniform & Equipage List and you will
do fine.
The
Citizens Guard will only wear leggings for a late spring-fall, 1862
impression. (EOG/US/190)
Civilian Hat
Our standards. Documented pattern, construction and materials only and a popular style
available to the troops at the time. Preferred styles include the pork pie,
crown (the so-called beehive), bowler, plug, and other documented selections in dark colors such as
black, dark brown or dark gray. The hats should have a grosgrain ribbon
surrounding the brim and around the base of the crown. The hat should be
constructed of fur felt with an interior liner of cloth. The sweatband should
be constructed of thin dyed leather. (EOG/US/186)
Personal
Items
Our standards. These
items should generally be carried in a soldier's pockets or knapsack. Some
items are only appropriate for a camp impression. These should be rather
limited in your kit.
A. Matches: Generally
made out of pine, with red tips, and contained in period cardboard
matchbox. Make sure label is of a documented manufacturer, and not a
modern maker. Matches were issued to soldiers as well in attached strings
or single sticks. (EOG/US/222)
B. Match Box
{Match Safe}: A private purchase item that some
soldiers used to protect their matches from getting damp and wet. Francis
A. Lord, in his Civil War Collector's
Encyclopedia, states, "One of the author's collection is of heavy tin,
oval in shape, 3 ¼ inches long, 2 ¼ inches wide" (162). Look at
antique stores for some plain tin matchboxes. Avoid most sutler row
matchboxes, which contain modern markings and designs. (EOG/US/222)
C. Cotton
Napkin and Towel: Another item from home or
purchased privately. Made out of cotton (the same fabric as your civilian
shirt), with two to three colored woven patterns such as small plaids, checks,
and stripes. The woven patterns should be the same on the reverse side of
the fabric. A simple ¼ inch overlapped hand sewn (whip stitched) border is
an additional touch that will prevent fraying of the material. Approximate
size should be around 24 by 24 inches. Period cotton towels of correct
pattern and weave are also appropriate such as huck toweling.
Francis
A. Lord, in his Civil War Collector's
Encyclopedia, states, "In the Ferris collection is a hand blocked
cotton handkerchief (As we learned from William Brewster at the Wisconsin
Veterans Museum, this is correctly called a napkin, not a handkerchief),
carried in the war by Daniel Heyden, Co. E 149th New York Infantry. The
dominant color is red, with white circular designs spread throughout. The
size is 25 by 22 inches." (119) (EOG/US/223)
D. Pocket
Watch: Key wind watches with relatively plain
silver, silver alloy, or highly expensive gold watch covers and
backings. Look for roman numerals. You can expect to pay quite a bit
for an accurate Civil War timepiece. These will be closely inspected for
accuracy. Watch chains seem to be rather rare.
E. Pipes:
Stick with simple pipes that an enlisted man of limited means would
carry. These were commonly made of briar, clay, or wood with corresponding
reed or wood stems. Period tobacco use only. Plain rolled cigars are
also allowed, but absolutely no cigarettes. (EOG/US/222)
F. Toothbrush: Comprised
of wood or bone handles with either horsehair or boars' hair bristles commonly
called "natural bristles." Please remove any modern
markings. Tooth powder or baking soda shall only be used with your
toothbrush. (EOG/US/223)
G. Wallet:
A private purchase item that some soldiers used to organize any small bills
that they had. All wallets shall be correct in pattern, materials, and
construction per original specimens. Materials such as leather and rubber were common
per original wallets. Francis A. Lord, in his Civil War Collector's Encyclopedia, states, "Most wallets were
of brown leather, 4 to 4 ½ inches long and 2 ½ to 3 inches wide. Many have
a wrap-around strap. In the author's collection is a wallet of
finely-tooled leather 7 ½ inches long and 3 5/8 inches wide. It belonged
to Corporal H.V. Polley, 14th New Jersey Volunteers. The excellent quality
of Polley's wallet is unusual. Moreover, its large size rendered it
cumbersome to carry in the field" (332). (EOG/US/223)
H. Playing
Cards: Playing card decks should be rather
plain without numbers and plastic coatings. Can be either patriotic Union
decks or standard decks with a flat finish. (EOG/US/222)
I. Mirror: A
small tin or wooden cased looking glass of approximately three inches in
diameter. No modern markings allowed. (EOG/US/222)
J. Razor:
Straight steel blades with bone, horn or hard rubber handles. These can
be found at antique stores. Once again, no modern markings allowed.
(EOG/US/222)
K. Comb: Composed
of wood, bone, or hard rubber. Hard rubber folding combs are easier to
carry than straight wooden or bone combs. Once again, no modern markings
allowed. (EOG/US/222-223)
L. Writing Tablet
& Stationary: Plain white or yellowish paper
bounded in a period covering such as leather or marble paperboard. Avoid
modern bindings and markings. Stationary must be of documented design and
construction. No modern stationary allowed. (EOG/US/222-223)
M. Pens, Ink,
& Pencils: Pens should be rather plain with steel
or wooden points. According to Vol. 1, No. 4 issue of The Watchdog,
"Pens actually used during the war have straight, unpainted wooden shafts
with metal fixtures on the business ends to accept nibs" (7). Ink
should be carried in a tin, glass, or wooden inkwell. Pencils should be
plain, without modern markings and erasers. (EOG/US/222-223)
N.
Camp Furniture. Pull up a log boys or just simply sit
on the ground like the original members of the Citizens Guard did. No
folding camp chairs or straw bales allowed in camp. These post-date the
war. This is not negotiable.
Uniform
& Equipage Standards for the Commissioned Officer
Commercial Officer’s
Blouse
A bit of history. Commercial (also
called Private Purchase) Officers Blouses were seen on many Second Wisconsin
officers during the war as documented by several field photographs. The
photograph in the holdings of the La Crosse Historical Society depicts many
Second Wisconsin Company Officers including the Citizens Guard’s George Stevens
wearing a Commercial Officers Blouse. The Wisconsin Historical Society also has
a full length studio picture of Captain James D. Wood of Company D Second
Wisconsin showing him wearing a fine four button commercial blouse with three
outside pockets.
Our standards.
The commercial officer’s blouse should exhibit a four or five button front,
with two to three outside pockets and one inside pocket. Can be made of either
an indigo dyed fine grade wool cloth (broadcloth) or wool flannel with
corresponding lining as seen on original specimens such as black silk or
polished cotton. Sleeve lining can be of patterned cotton or cotton muslin.
Sleeves may also feature a large circumference around the elbow, which was
another stylish trait in officer’s blouses. Black velvet collars and cuffs are
also acceptable as seen on many original commercial blouses.
The
private purchase officer’s blouse must be accurate in terms of pattern,
construction and materials compared with an original article. Due to the
variety of documented construction methods in this commercial garment, the
officer’s blouse may be either completely hand sewn, hand sewn with machine
topstitching, or a combination of both hand and machine sewing as per an
original specimen. Hand sewn details such as quilting, linings, and facings
were common features present in officer’s commercial blouses as well. Buttons
and buttonholes must be hand sewn using blue or black cotton or silk thread.
The
Citizens Guard prefers an officer’s commercial blouse to be lined but unlined
blouses are also acceptable. Seams should be flat felled in all unlined
officer commercial blouses.
Unless
documented for a particular impression, please avoid the use of enlisted
fatigue blouses if possible. Please refer to our enlisted standards for this
garment. (EOG/US/119)
Officer’s Private
Purchase Dress Coat (Frock)
A bit of history.
There are plenty of studio and a few field photographs of company grade
officers wearing private purchase dress coats in the 2d Wisconsin. Photographic
evidence of Company C, Second Wisconsin Volunteer Infantry Regiment depicts the
officers of the Grant County Grays clothed in dress coats during the late
spring/early summer of 1862 (SHSW negative no. WHi (X3) 11298). It was an
officer’s choice to wear either a commercial blouse or private purchase dress
coat. These garments were typically expertly tailored and well made as several
of us have seen an original worn by Captain Fred L. Warner, Company G Seventh
Wisconsin Volunteer Infantry Regiment.
Our standards. The officer’s private purchase dress
coat features include an indigo dyed fine grade
woolen cloth (broadcloth), a standing collar, skirt with two rear pockets,
padded black or brown polished cotton, alpaca, or tow chest lining, cotton
muslin sleeve lining. An internal coat pocket is also acceptable if documented
by an original dress coat. Sleeves may also feature a large circumference
around the elbow, which was another stylish trait in officer dress coats
as well. Private purchase dress coats must have nine 3/4 inch general
service eagle buttons* on body front, three 5/8 inch general service eagle
buttons on each functional cuff, two 3/4 inch general service eagle buttons in
back (above the skirt tails), and two ¾ general service eagle buttons on the
tails. *Buttons on these coats can be branch of service, state or staff, but we
prefer officers’ coats to have general service or branch of service buttons.
The
private purchase officers dress coat must be accurate in terms of pattern,
construction, and materials compared with an original article. Due to the
documented variance among original dress coats, the Citizens Guard prefers a
dress coat to be hand sewn or "mostly" hand sewn.
A combination of hand and machine work is acceptable as seen in original
garments. In particular note that hand sewn details such as quilting, linings,
and facings were very common features in commercial officers dress coats as
well. Buttonholes and buttons shall be all hand sewn using blue or black cotton
or silk thread.
An
eye and hook should be attached at the collar. Black velvet collars and
cuffs are also acceptable as seen on many original specimens.
Officers
dress coats are highly encouraged for all junior officers of the Citizens
Guard. Officers cannot wear enlisted dress coats. (EOG/US/116-117)